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  #11  
Old January 23rd, 2010, 06:56 AM
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RightDeve RightDeve is offline
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by nuNce View Post
If you have the will, you can go through Larry Holt's Tactics Guide. It has been written for an old version of Steel Panthers World at War, but many concepts are useful not just for WW2, but for any wargame I'd say.
Great thanks for that matey! It looks like a whole book on wargame's tactics!
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  #12  
Old January 24th, 2010, 09:06 PM

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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Great tips fellas--i am much appreciative. I am now trying to start a campaign but am getting bogged down into what types of units to buy, how many units to buy, what fires smoke, what is my spear head, how much armor, support armor, artillery and batteries, infantry and what types-spot 1,2,3,4 lmg-smg-mortors-flamers-so much, scouts--mobile-2 man teams or should they be snipers, AT weapons, AA weapons, and engineers. Holy sleepiness from all this reading. I have opened the game like 10 times only to close it again to read more online...

By the way I read 90% of Larry Holts guide--fine info here.

I am now, as described above, bogged down in what my starting core will be. I work in Iraq and have many hours a day to devote to study. I figure within the next few days I will figure out what types of units I want to start with--holy complications. I always kind of considered myself s minor ww2 historian, but I am quickly realizing I don’t know bupkiss in comparison to some of you all. I am glad to be in likes of some of you guys who know, for example, that certain weapons weren’t utilized during the war because the ammo production was halted.

By the way what exactly is FOO?
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  #13  
Old January 25th, 2010, 09:44 AM
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iCaMpWiThAWP iCaMpWiThAWP is offline
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

It's a forward observer, his only use in the battlefiel is to call accurate and fast artillery fire, use your FO tu call arty, and DON'T GET ENGAGED, he's a costly unit.
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  #14  
Old January 25th, 2010, 03:06 PM
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldiercrush View Post
Great tips fellas--i am much appreciative. I am now trying to start a campaign but am getting bogged down into what types of units to buy, how many units to buy, what fires smoke, what is my spear head, how much armor, support armor, artillery and batteries, infantry and what types-spot 1,2,3,4 lmg-smg-mortors-flamers-so much, scouts--mobile-2 man teams or should they be snipers, AT weapons, AA weapons, and engineers. Holy sleepiness from all this reading. I have opened the game like 10 times only to close it again to read more online...

By the way I read 90% of Larry Holts guide--fine info here.

I am now, as described above, bogged down in what my starting core will be. I work in Iraq and have many hours a day to devote to study. I figure within the next few days I will figure out what types of units I want to start with--holy complications. I always kind of considered myself s minor ww2 historian, but I am quickly realizing I don’t know bupkiss in comparison to some of you all. I am glad to be in likes of some of you guys who know, for example, that certain weapons weren’t utilized during the war because the ammo production was halted.

By the way what exactly is FOO?
if you don't understand an acronym then try google.

Thus site also may be handy: http://www.militarywords.com/

Typing FOO into the search box gave a few results, one of which should be obvious from the context.

FOO = Forward Observation Officer
MOP = Mortar Observation Party
NGO = Naval Gunfire Observer
AOP = Air Observation Party ("Tentacle" in UK use in WW2)

Back then it was the radio you carried (they were large) generally that defined what artillery net you were observing for. (My high school cadet force back in the 70s still had a 2 man WW2 platoon radio pack with maybe a mile range - one guy had the backpack radio, the other the backpack battery, joined together by a cable like Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee).

Nowadays armies use Fire Support Teams (FIST) which are netted into all support fire providers. SP Observers are FIST even in 1930 - they can call all fire support assets.

Cheers
Andy
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  #15  
Old January 25th, 2010, 04:47 PM
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldiercrush View Post
Great tips fellas--i am much appreciative. I am now trying to start a campaign but am getting bogged down into what types of units to buy, how many units to buy, what fires smoke, what is my spear head, how much armor, support armor, artillery and batteries, infantry and what types-spot 1,2,3,4 lmg-smg-mortors-flamers-so much, scouts--mobile-2 man teams or should they be snipers, AT weapons, AA weapons, and engineers. Holy sleepiness from all this reading. I have opened the game like 10 times only to close it again to read more online...

By the way I read 90% of Larry Holts guide--fine info here.

I am now, as described above, bogged down in what my starting core will be. I work in Iraq and have many hours a day to devote to study. I figure within the next few days I will figure out what types of units I want to start with--holy complications. I always kind of considered myself s minor ww2 historian, but I am quickly realizing I don’t know bupkiss in comparison to some of you all. I am glad to be in likes of some of you guys who know, for example, that certain weapons weren’t utilized during the war because the ammo production was halted.

By the way what exactly is FOO?
If you are having problems then simply start with a learner core and be prepared to dump the campaign 10 battles in if it proves a dead end.

Start with Germany or the UK (both are entire WW2 length)
- Italy is only recommended for an experienced player since they are so far behind equipment-wise.

[HQ and support coy]
HQ
FOO (on foot) - buy him right after the HQ so he is easy to find on the HQ menus!
1 Mortar platoon (4-6 tubes) or 1 battery of off-map 25pdr or similar light arty
1 or 2 FLAK sections (SP or towed)- use for grunt bashing if you have the air superiority
1 or 2 ATG section (towed) - useful even when attacking - GE may want a couple of 88 by France to deal with Char-b etc
1 or 2 light tank or armour car recce sections
Maybe - a CS tank unit (e.g UK 3.7inch or German short 75mm on P4 or stug, or 15cm SiG) for direct fire HE bashing of enemy grunts, or
UK - (a fast cruiser tank platoon as recce/reserve + a light truck or bren carrier mounted rifle platoon), or
GE - (Panzer 3/4+75 platoon + mech platoon) as reserve/recce/fire brigade force

Company team:[2 or 3 of]
1 Leg rifle company. If you have an AT grenade choice - get them!
1 scout section (if not already part of the coy) - possibly in bren carrier etc
1 mortar section (2 tubes) - if not already part of the coy (GE could use the 75mm infantry gun here instead - very long range c/f mortar)
1 MG section - if not already part of the coy
1 light truck section - to move the mortars and MG about. rescue chopped up squads etc
1 medium tank platoon for close support of the leg coy (important!) - these do not wander off from the grunts!

The medium tanks will be your main anti-tank weapons so should a) be best armour you can get for the period and b) have decent a-tk guns (ie not the 75mm short of the Germans). Germany - P3/37 and then upgrade to 50mm ASAP, UK Matilda or a cruiser with 2 pounder (A9 is slow and thin tin, but has an extra hull MG - useful v Italians)

First buy of support troops in any battle will be a few ammo carriers for your mortars. Then whatever specialists you may need e.g. engineers if an assault. Germany - in Poland get some of the cheap armoured cars with only an MG for hosing down grunts (when tank threat gone). UK - light tank VI ditto for Italian grunt removal.

Upgrades - when infantry with decent AT grenades come available, then upgrade to those. Germans - 50mm Panzer 3 at end of France. UK not much till Valentines come available (slightly faster than Matilda 2 and much the same armour, there is a version with the AAMG and extra MG are always useful). Daimler A/C with 2 pdr when available (fast ambush predator, use as a mobile tank destroyer).

Once available, then a SP tank destroyer section per rifle coy is a good idea. UK - when deacon (6 pdr) arrives, GE when stug+long 75mm or marder+75/76mm. (Or replace existing towed ATG and trucks with SP)

Save up your unused buy points and eventually buy a third/fourth company - possibly a tank coy + an armoured inf platoon, in 42 or 43 or so, and another battery of off-map. No other buys needed other than tank and weapon upgrades, really other than maybe an engineer platoon and as Germany, some more SP-AAA come 1944 when Allied air becomes a pest.

If you are more of a tread head then try:
[HQ and support coy]
HQ
FOO
2-3 AAA or SPAA sections
arty or mortar bty, on or off-map
1-2 Scout car or light tank sections (recce) or leg+truck scouts or M/cycle
GE - an 88 section by France
1 light truck platoon - to move your mortars or "taxi" your leg grunts (e.g support engineers) with

1 tank coy
+ A light truck/carrier/mech infantry platoon to keep up with the tanks

1 leg grunt coy group as above (to hold objectives taken by the tanks in advance, or defend with)

Those cores are not too large, so the battles will be manageable affairs for learning from.
- do not lose the FOO, he will gain experience as he lives and become a very quick caller of fires eventually
- use the HQ as an additional FOO, he will also become good at it
- your core arty units will improve in response times too, if you don't lose them. Shift them if they come under counter-battery fires!

Germany - if you think you are still learning by Barbarossa then don't take your troops to Russia to meet the KV and T-34! - remain in the desert, Sicily, Italy, etc and the biggest thing you will meet is Western Allied Shermans and Churchills.

Tactics in the advance - choose an objective group (make sure the shotgun is off when learning as a scattered battle is difficult) - take it, then move up grunts to "go firm" on it. Now take the next, and go firm on it, then repeat with #3. Be prepared to fight a counter attack at some point, hold fast and break him at that point. See my post #7 here for an attack strategy: http://forum.shrapnelgames.com/showt...highlight=lawn

Andy
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  #16  
Old January 25th, 2010, 05:07 PM

Soldiercrush Soldiercrush is offline
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Andy

You are the king.

THanks fellas. I figured FOO was a forward observer I just did not get the acronyn, but now I do. I wil start my first non scenario today.

I will be back --thanks again
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  #17  
Old January 25th, 2010, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldiercrush View Post
Andy

You are the king.

THanks fellas. I figured FOO was a forward observer I just did not get the acronyn, but now I do. I wil start my first non scenario today.

I will be back --thanks again
One other thing - if you are using a mainly infantry core that is intended to walk in the main then you may want to set up your preferences to an 80 by 80 map rather than the 80 by 100 default. (Or add a few turns to the default in the setup over what is offered).

The 80 deep map means a bit less for you to walk to any objectives (esp if it was snow or a jungle!) - but also means the enemy is on you quicker if you are delaying or defending of course!


Andy
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  #18  
Old January 25th, 2010, 08:15 PM

Soldiercrush Soldiercrush is offline
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

couple other random questions


What exactly is a section—how many units is that?

Range finder and Fire control? How does this correlate to hitting and abilities in game? How does this deal with the fire control ladder?
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  #19  
Old January 25th, 2010, 11:27 PM
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldiercrush View Post
couple other random questions


What exactly is a section—how many units is that?

Range finder and Fire control? How does this correlate to hitting and abilities in game? How does this deal with the fire control ladder?
These answers will be in the game guide if you search it.

Section normally 2 units may be 3 for some nations if scouts or the like.

Range Finder increases chance to hit at range less effective if moving.

Fire control think improves all hit chances including helps a bit if moving but a stabiliser helps movement more though WW2 ones are not great.

No idea what the actual calculations are just play & get a feel for, all bigger is better WW2 tanks need to be stationary or near to when firing if you want to hit something.
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  #20  
Old January 26th, 2010, 03:03 AM
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Mobhack Mobhack is offline
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Default Re: Newbie Strategies POST THEM HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldiercrush View Post
couple other random questions


What exactly is a section—how many units is that?

Range finder and Fire control? How does this correlate to hitting and abilities in game? How does this deal with the fire control ladder?
An infantry section is what the left-pondians would call a "squad". (In the UK army "squads" are random bunches of whoever is available to do square-bashing or KP, paint rocks white etc. - the stuff thought up by NCOs to keep the troops busy in barracks that gives soldiers the nickname of "squaddies". The tactical grouping of 8-10 men is a section)

Section is also sometimes applied to an ad-hoc sub-grouping of a platoon sized unit of vehicles or arty, e.g a 5 tank US platoon which might act tactically as 1 HQ and 2 sections of 2, or as a 3 tank "heavy" and 2 tank "light" section. The unloaded APCs of a mech platoon which has dismounted may operate togrther under an NCO and be termed an "APC section" (Bronigroup (sp) in Soviet armies, usually consisting of all the empty APC of a mech coy gathered together as a fire support group).

RF and FC are described in the Game Guide and also in the Mobhack help. We dont go into any great detail because the end user is not allowed to know the details of the original SSI code per the original agreement.

Basically - RF helps you hit at longer range, and FC helps deal with moving enemy targets (and your own motion, a little). STAB lets you move a little further without deleterious effect for your movement, and so long as LOS is not broken, keeps you locked on the target and hence you keep the ladder position. The ladder is a 1-2-3 progression usually to a 100% solution, unless you are a missile, or a laser RF (in MBT) under twice the RF range (40 if I recall correctly) where it is a 1-2 progression.

However - WW2 values for all are rather low, so it is best to try to engage at the full halt (no move till shots all fired), or move maybe 1 hex at most (e.g. from defilade onto a ridge) before firing at the short halt, maybe 2 hexes along a road if stabilised. (Naturally if firing at 250m or less then you may scoot maybe 3-5 hexes before shooting e.g. in a town with a half-decent chance, snap-shooting in other words, esp if your target has moved fast - inadvisable if he is halted and has shots available unless desperate!)

Cheers
Andy
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